To the Chief Executive Officer, VP of Sport, and Board of Directors for USA Climbing:
We, the undersigned members of the climbing community, support and welcome transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes in our sport.
We believe all young people should have fair and equitable access to participation in, and to the benefits of, rock climbing. In its current state, the new Transgender Athlete Participation Policy requires actions on behalf of transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes and their families that are a violation of privacy, medically inadvisable, and legally unobtainable. This policy effectively bans transgender minors from participating in competitive rock climbing.
We request the following:
Review the USA Climbing Transgender Athlete Participation Policy, published on September 26, 2023, and make immediate revisions to remove restrictions for youth;
Directly involve transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, their families and coaches, and subject matter experts in the policy-making process;
Suspend the new eligibility requirements during the interim and revision period to allow transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes the ability to participate.
1. Review and revise the USA Climbing Transgender Athlete Participation Policy.
We believe it is unethical for USA Climbing to mandate medical requirements for youth when it is outside the bounds of what is accepted as gender affirming care. Under this new policy, USA Climbing requires action on behalf of youth participants in International-Track—Youth B, Youth A, and Juniors—that is legally inaccessible, unnecessary at this age, and raises concern for athletes’ safety and privacy. The requirements in this policy are harmful to trans athletes and expose all youth athletes to potentially dangerous practices without ensuring fairness in our sport.
We do not believe youth athletes should be pressured by USA Climbing to undergo any kind of medical care, including treatments with irreversible effects, to meet eligibility requirements needed to compete in our sport. These decisions should be left up to the athlete, their guardian(s), and their medical providers. Minors and parents should be able to make these decisions without risk of losing access to sport, teammates, and the competitive environment.
It is unreasonable to expect athletes’ adherence to time-sensitive policies when USA Climbing does not allow adequate time to do so. Coaches and the USA Climbing community were notified of policy changes via email on October 4, 2023. Given this date, it is impossible for youth athletes to meet the medical requirements at their first 12-month test, due on October 1, 2024, when the full testing requirements go into effect.
2. Directly involve transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, their families and coaches, and subject matter experts in the policy-making process.
Policy should not be created in a vacuum. We are calling for a transparent process in policy-making that includes transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, as well as other impacted parties, as part of the process. It is only with the inclusion of these voices that fair competition policies can be written for all participants.
3. Suspend the new eligibility requirements during the interim and revision period to allow transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes the ability to participate.
Transgender athletes have historically participated in USA Climbing events without conflict. They should not be restricted from sport during the policy review and revision period.
As it currently stands, the Transgender Athlete Participation Policy violates USA Climbing’s core values. By restricting access to sport for athletes and compromising the safety and privacy of all participants, this policy does not put athletes first, nor does it promote diversity, equity, and inclusion in the competitive environment.
We understand this policy has been made in an effort to ensure fairness in our sport. There is nothing fair about singling out youth and mandating eligibility requirements that violate their privacy and cause them harm. Policy cannot be written with the assumption that transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes pose an inherent threat to fair competition.
Climbing has the power to teach us invaluable lessons about ourselves, discipline, and sportsmanship. No one should be denied access to experience these lessons or to the pride of being part of a team simply for being who they are. Transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes should be welcomed into our sport with open arms. We will not stand silent while members of the climbing community are unfairly targeted and restricted from our sport.
Signed,
Trans Climbers Belong Leadership Team
Cat Runner; Trans Athlete, Winner of HBO’s The Climb, prAna Athlete, Rhino Skin Solutions
Katie Lamb; Professional Climber, Patagonia, La Sportiva, Friction Labs, Organic Athlete, 2012 PanAmerican Youth Champion, USAC Collegiate Committee
Ethan Pringle; Professional Climber, 4x Youth National Lead Champion, IFSC World Youth Championships Silver Medal (2000), 6x USA National Championship Podium, Mountain Hardwear and Mad Rock Athlete
Isis Rothfork; Athlete, Team USA, 4x National Champion
Tyson Schoene; 6-Time National Team Champion. US National Team Coach 2005-2009, 2013-2018; Head Coach/Director of The Vertical World Climbing Team
Francesca Caiazzo; US Youth National Team Assistant Coach, Current USAC Coaching Committee Chair, Director of Competitive Teams CRG Watertown
Elliott Nguyen; USA Paraclimbing Team, Gold Medal IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Salt Lake City 2023, Silver Medal IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Bern 2023, 4x IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Finalist
Claire Gordon; USAC Youth Worlds Coach 2021, Team Pinkpoint Head Coach and Founder, Former USAC National Athlete
Maurice Cureton; Youth National Team Coach, Level 1 Setter, USAC Coaching Committee Member
Ashley Fisher; Former US National Team in Boulder, Lead, and Speed, Current Collegiate Team Athlete
Alvaro Rangel ; USA Elite and Youth Team Coach, USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Level 3 Routesetter, Founder & Head Coach of Class Five Climbing Team
Grace Crowley; IFSC World Cup Athlete
Maya Madere; USAC Competitor, Former Youth National Champion, Former USA National Team (Bouldering, 2022)
Dru Mack; Professional Climber, Adidas, Five Ten, Petzl, Friction Labs, PhysiVantage
Sydney McNair; USAC Chief Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach
Gavin Albright; Non-binary Athlete, US National Team, Sport Climbing National Champion, HoldOn Athlete
Meghan McDonald; Head Coach US Youth National Team, USAC DEIC member, Former USAC Coaching Committee Chair
Mike Rougeux; Bend Endurance Academy Executive Director, Former USAC Regional Coordinator R12, USAC Apprentice Coach 2021 Youth Worlds
Brian Squire; USAC Athlete, Former Team USA, 2-time National Champion
Mandi Curtis; USAC National Paraclimbing Team, 2x IFSC World Championship Competitor
Shelma Jun; Founder and Managing Director of Flash Foxy, Global Ambassador for Arc’teryx
Morgan Loomis; Team USA National Paraclimbing Athlete
Eliana Wallack; Trans Paraclimber, USAC DEI Committee Member, Former USAC Paraclimbing National Team Member
Charlie Schreiber; USAC Level 2 Coach, National Champion Coach, Former Team USA Athlete
Alexa Schehrer; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth and Elite Competitor; Youth Festival Intern Coach
Adeline Wright, La Sportiva athlete, North Face, Tension Climbing, Gunks Apps, Beta Labs, USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Mary Tankersley; Team USA National Paraclimbing Athlete
Steven Dimmitt; Owner/Creator/Host The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Ben Jennings; Youth USA National Team, USAC Level 2 Coach, Elite and Collegiate Athlete
Tuesday “Kirby” Kahl; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Festival Coach, Collegiate and Elite Competitor
Palmer Larsen; Head Coach Team Momentum, Former Team USA Athlete
Zoe Sayetta; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach at Movement Gowanus, USAC Youth Festival Head Coach, USAC Youth National Team Intern Coach
Jon Mavko; USAC Level 2 Coach, Youth National Team Intern Coach, 2023
Malik Moe; USAC LV1 Coach, Beta Labs, NYC Arc'teryx ambassador, Elite and Collegiate athlete
Luke Bertelsten; USAC National Chief Routesetter, General Manager/Co-owner at Rocks and Ropes
Katey Blumenthal; Sports and Orthopedic Certified Specialist with Pediatric and Women’s Pelvic Health Specialties, Founder of the University of Utah Climber’s Clinic, Physical Therapist working with USAC medical support
Jessi Haynes; USAC Coach, Head Coach Circle City Climbing, USAC Coaching Committee Member
Mario Stanley; Head Coach/Team Manager Movement Gym Plano, Sends and Suffers Podcast Host, Participant on HBO’s The Climb
Carly Snidow; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Nationals Festival Coach
Emmett Cookson; USA Paraclimbing Team Head Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Athlete
Jess Malloy; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Nationals Festival Coach
Augy Cohn; USAC Level 4 Nationals Routesetter
Malcom Mel Godowski; USAC Level 2 Coach, Routesetter, Former USAC DEI Committee Chair
Chris Mosier; Trans Athlete, Hall of fame Triathlete, All-American Duathlete, National Champion Race Walker
Jaelen Holt; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach Boston Bouldering Project, USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Evan Marlatt; USAC Level 4 Routesetter
Moé Corbett; USAC Level 4 Routesetter
Kathy Karlo; For the Love of Climbing Podcast; No Man's Land Film Festival Executive Director
Shara Zaia; President (Cruxing in Color), Manager (AAC), Athlete (SCARPA, Wild Country, Arc’teryx)
Chad Walker; USAC Level 3 Routesetter
Andrea Charest; Gym Owner, Mammut Athlete, AMGA Ice Instructor, Assistant Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide
Jasper Jarecki; Head Coach Metrorock VT, Metrorock VT Competition Team
Amin Abbasi; USAC Level 4 Routesetter, Mesa Rim Austin Head Setter
Brad Burns; La Sportiva Athlete, PCGI SPI Climbing Guide, Participant on HBO's The Climb
Cate Beebe; Climbing Director at Bend Endurance Academy, USAC Level 2 routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach
Nathan Sato; USAC Athlete, USAC Youth Finalist, USAC Coach
Jordan Romig; Owner of Asylum Bouldering Gym
Jenna Tseng; La Sportiva and Arc'teryx Athlete, USAC Level 2 Coach
Jenny Fryer; Head Coach, USAC Level 2 coach and USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Christine Deyo; USAC Level 3 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach
Dylan Garey; USAC Level 3 Routesetter
Paul Jung; Director of Routesetting, The Cliffs Climbing + Fitness
Amanda Foote; USAC Level 2 Coach, National Festival Coach, Level 1 Routesetter
Hilary Silberman; USAC Level 2 Coach, Parent of USAC Athlete
Matthew Birch; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, Head Routesetter
David Sumada; USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Rajan Patel; USAC Collegiate Athlete
Genevive Walker; Evolv, DMM, Mountain Hardware, Sterling Rope Athlete, AMGA Rock Guide
Mia DePaolis; USAC Level 3 Routesetter
Ryan Smith; USAC Level 3 Routesetter
Xander Henriod; USAC Athlete
Taylor Fragomeni; Former Head Coach Bozeman Climbing Team, Former USAC Routesetter; Owner/Founder of Tangent Climbing
Alex Olander; Trans Athlete, USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Blake Green; USAC Coach, Routesetter, Committee Member
Kristen Fiore; USAC Level 2 Coach, CRAG-VT President
Aidan Halloran; USAC Level 2 Coach
Ezra Park; USAC Level 2 Coach
Erin Rast; USAC Level 2 Coach, Athlete
Jordan Revis; Cypher Climbing Athlete, Arc’Teryx Boston Community Ambassador, Aniiu Gloves Athlete, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Ethan Paris; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach
Andrew Dederer; USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Min Chi; Coach, Parent, Gym Owner
Philip Bonyhadi; USAC Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Briana Chui; USAC Level 1 Routesetter and Level 2 Coach, Elevation Climbing Team Head Coach
Sarah Bucknam; USAC Coach, Routesetter, Athlete
Maiza Lima; Athlete, Participant on HBO’s The Climb
Andre Braga; Athlete, Participant on HBO’s The Climb
Kelsey Rex; La Sportiva and Blue Ice Athlete, AMGA Rock Guide
Kevin Kubik; USAC Level 2 Paraclimbing Coach
Ahmed Toure; USAC Coach
Chelsea Sommer; USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Ada Jones; USAC Level 2 Coach
Robyn Ragins; USAC Level 2 Coach, Finalist on HBO’s The Climb
Naomi Skeer; USAC Level 2 Coach
Trevor Gallo; USAC Level 2 Coach
Rya Sipe; Youth Programs Director at Out in the Wild, USAC level 2 coach, AMGA Apprentice Rock Guide
Bri Givens; USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Claire Kawainui Miller; USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Brittany Leavitt; Athlete, Instructor, Brown Girls Climb CEO
Mariana Mendoza; Athlete, Former Mexico’s National Climbing Team, Former Coach, Featured in Patagonia’s film What the Hands Do, Social Justice Advocate
Stefanie Myr; USAC Coach / Level 1 Routesetter
Gene O. Desideraggiop; USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Raymond Hansen; USAC Athlete, USAC level 1 Routesetter
Brittany Booth Wenzelman; USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Evan Keyes; USAC Coach, Routesetter
Alexa Zielinkski; USAC Coach
Brett Wingerter; USAC Youth Head Coach, Movement LIC
Jaegar Doty; Routesetter & Coach
Ethan Rao-Cramer; USAC Level 2 Coach
Amira Anis; Routesetter & Instructor
Doc Surrell; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Head Routesetter Climb Nulu
Brandon Conaway; USAC Level 4 Routesetter
Becca Saag; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Flannery Shay-Nemirow; USAC L4 routesetter, IFSC Diversity Intern, USAC Routesetting Committee Member
Jessa Mayhew; Parent of USAC Athlete
Andy Raether; Parent of USAC Athlete, Former Pro Climber, Former Youth Competitor
Mélise Edwards; Athlete, PhD Candidate
Theo Seah; Former USAC Collegiate Athlete, Youth Team Coach
Rebecca Anderson; Parent of USAC Athlete
Kimbrough Moore; Guidebook Author
Torsten Johnson; USAC Coach
Elle McDonald; USAC Athlete, Collegiate Rocky Mountain Student Representative
Hann Smiley; USAC Coach, AMGA Singe-Pitch Instructor
Rebecca Anderson; Parent of USAC Athletes
Jennifer Walters; Climbing Photographer
Mariah Rooney; Trauma-Informed Sport Consultant, WPATH Affirming Psychotherapist, Professor
Winter Russell; USAC Collegiate Athlete
Hayden Simmons; USAC Collegiate Athlete
Aryana Bhattacharyya; USAC Athlete, USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Nico Salinas; USAC Level 1 Coach
Marisa Romero; USAC Level 2 Coach
Sean Youn; USAC Collegiate Athlete
Jessica Cysner; PA-C, Former Athlete and Coach
Deidre Beck; Parent of USAC Athlete
Chris Truono; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, USAC Level 1 Coach
Mikey Reyenga; USAC Level 2 Routesetter
Zoe Brodsky; USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Brian Hennebry; USAC Level 2 Coach, Routesetter
Drew Gatlin; USAC Level 1 Routesetter
Chris Lopez; Routesetter
Todd Stebbing; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Head Routesetter
River Tulloss; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach
Emily Varisco; USAC Level 2 Coach, co-Founder of Kinship Climbing Collective (KCC), Head Coach of Lunate Climbing Team and the University of Oregon Climbing Team, Former 2-time USAC Youth Climbing Team member
Jordan Revis; Athlete, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor
Emily Alcaraz; Coach
Pat Guillen; USAC Coach, USAC Judge, USAC Belayer
Ben Stanton; Sportrock Youth Head Coach, Competitor
Richard Banh; USAC Collegiate Athlete
Kaci Collins Jordan; Trans Athlete, Climbing Instructor
Steph Chaddock; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach MetroRock Littleton
Hunter Wade; Industry Employee
Last Updated 12/27/2023 4:41pm EST