To the Chief Executive Officer, VP of Sport, and Board of Directors for USA Climbing:

We, the undersigned members of the climbing community, support and welcome transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes in our sport.

We believe all young people should have fair and equitable access to participation in, and to the benefits of, rock climbing. In its current state, the new Transgender Athlete Participation Policy requires actions on behalf of transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes and their families that are a violation of privacy, medically inadvisable, and legally unobtainable. This policy effectively bans transgender minors from participating in competitive rock climbing.

We request the following:

  1. Review the USA Climbing Transgender Athlete Participation Policy, published on September 26, 2023, and make immediate revisions to remove restrictions for youth;

  2. Directly involve transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, their families and coaches, and subject matter experts in the policy-making process;

  3. Suspend the new eligibility requirements during the interim and revision period to allow transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes the ability to participate. 

1. Review and revise the USA Climbing Transgender Athlete Participation Policy.
We believe it is unethical for USA Climbing to mandate medical requirements for youth when it is outside the bounds of what is accepted as gender affirming care. Under this new policy, USA Climbing requires action on behalf of youth participants in International-Track—Youth B, Youth A, and Juniors—that is legally inaccessible, unnecessary at this age, and raises concern for athletes’ safety and privacy. The requirements in this policy are harmful to trans athletes and expose all youth athletes to potentially dangerous practices without ensuring fairness in our sport.

We do not believe youth athletes should be pressured by USA Climbing to undergo any kind of medical care, including treatments with irreversible effects, to meet eligibility requirements needed to compete in our sport. These decisions should be left up to the athlete, their guardian(s), and their medical providers. Minors and parents should be able to make these decisions without risk of losing access to sport, teammates, and the competitive environment.

It is unreasonable to expect athletes’ adherence to time-sensitive policies when USA Climbing does not allow adequate time to do so. Coaches and the USA Climbing community were notified of policy changes via email on October 4, 2023. Given this date, it is impossible for youth athletes to meet the medical requirements at their first 12-month test, due on October 1, 2024, when the full testing requirements go into effect. 

2. Directly involve transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, their families and coaches, and subject matter experts in the policy-making process.
Policy should not be created in a vacuum. We are calling for a transparent process in policy-making that includes transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes, as well as other impacted parties, as part of the process. It is only with the inclusion of these voices that fair competition policies can be written for all participants.

3. Suspend the new eligibility requirements during the interim and revision period to allow transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes the ability to participate.
Transgender athletes have historically participated in USA Climbing events without conflict. They should not be restricted from sport during the policy review and revision period.

As it currently stands, the Transgender Athlete Participation Policy violates USA Climbing’s core values. By restricting access to sport for athletes and compromising the safety and privacy of all participants, this policy does not put athletes first, nor does it promote diversity, equity, and inclusion in the competitive environment.

We understand this policy has been made in an effort to ensure fairness in our sport. There is nothing fair about singling out youth and mandating eligibility requirements that violate their privacy and cause them harm. Policy cannot be written with the assumption that transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes pose an inherent threat to fair competition. 

Climbing has the power to teach us invaluable lessons about ourselves, discipline, and sportsmanship. No one should be denied access to experience these lessons or to the pride of being part of a team simply for being who they are. Transgender, nonbinary, and intersex athletes should be welcomed into our sport with open arms. We will not stand silent while members of the climbing community are unfairly targeted and restricted from our sport.

Signed,

  1. Trans Climbers Belong Leadership Team

  2. Cat Runner; Trans Athlete, Winner of HBO’s The Climb, prAna Athlete, Rhino Skin Solutions

  3. Katie Lamb; Professional Climber, Patagonia, La Sportiva, Friction Labs, Organic Athlete,  2012 PanAmerican Youth Champion, USAC Collegiate Committee

  4. Ethan Pringle; Professional Climber, 4x Youth National Lead Champion, IFSC World Youth Championships Silver Medal (2000), 6x USA National Championship Podium, Mountain Hardwear and Mad Rock Athlete

  5. Isis Rothfork; Athlete, Team USA, 4x National Champion

  6. Tyson Schoene; 6-Time National Team Champion. US National Team Coach 2005-2009, 2013-2018; Head Coach/Director of The Vertical World Climbing Team

  7. Francesca Caiazzo; US Youth National Team Assistant Coach, Current USAC Coaching Committee Chair, Director of Competitive Teams CRG Watertown

  8. Elliott Nguyen; USA Paraclimbing Team, Gold Medal IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Salt Lake City 2023, Silver Medal IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Bern 2023, 4x IFSC Paraclimbing World Cup Finalist

  9. Claire Gordon; USAC Youth Worlds Coach 2021, Team Pinkpoint Head Coach and Founder, Former USAC National Athlete

  10. Maurice Cureton; Youth National Team Coach, Level 1 Setter, USAC Coaching Committee Member

  11. Ashley Fisher; Former US National Team in Boulder, Lead, and Speed, Current Collegiate Team Athlete

  12. Alvaro Rangel ; USA Elite and Youth Team Coach, USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Level 3 Routesetter, Founder & Head Coach of Class Five Climbing Team

  13. Grace Crowley; IFSC World Cup Athlete

  14. Maya Madere; USAC Competitor, Former Youth National Champion, Former USA National Team (Bouldering, 2022)

  15. Dru Mack; Professional Climber, Adidas, Five Ten, Petzl, Friction Labs, PhysiVantage

  16. Sydney McNair; USAC Chief Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach

  17. Gavin Albright; Non-binary Athlete, US National Team, Sport Climbing National Champion, HoldOn Athlete

  18. Meghan McDonald; Head Coach US Youth National Team, USAC DEIC member, Former USAC Coaching Committee Chair

  19. Mike Rougeux; Bend Endurance Academy Executive Director, Former USAC Regional Coordinator R12, USAC Apprentice Coach 2021 Youth Worlds

  20. Brian Squire; USAC Athlete, Former Team USA, 2-time National Champion

  21. Mandi Curtis; USAC National Paraclimbing Team, 2x IFSC World Championship Competitor

  22. Shelma Jun; Founder and Managing Director of Flash Foxy, Global Ambassador for Arc’teryx

  23. Morgan Loomis; Team USA National Paraclimbing Athlete

  24. Eliana Wallack; Trans Paraclimber, USAC DEI Committee Member, Former USAC Paraclimbing National Team Member

  25. Charlie Schreiber; USAC Level 2 Coach, National Champion Coach, Former Team USA Athlete

  26. Alexa Schehrer; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth and Elite Competitor; Youth Festival Intern Coach

  27. Adeline Wright, La Sportiva athlete, North Face, Tension Climbing, Gunks Apps, Beta Labs, USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  28. Mary Tankersley; Team USA National Paraclimbing Athlete

  29. Steven Dimmitt; Owner/Creator/Host The Nugget Climbing Podcast 

  30. Ben Jennings; Youth USA National Team, USAC Level 2 Coach, Elite and Collegiate Athlete

  31. Tuesday “Kirby” Kahl; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Festival Coach, Collegiate and Elite Competitor

  32. Palmer Larsen; Head Coach Team Momentum, Former Team USA Athlete

  33. Zoe Sayetta; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach at Movement Gowanus, USAC Youth Festival Head Coach, USAC Youth National Team Intern Coach

  34. Jon Mavko; USAC Level 2 Coach, Youth National Team Intern Coach, 2023

  35. Malik Moe; USAC LV1 Coach, Beta Labs, NYC Arc'teryx ambassador, Elite and Collegiate athlete

  36. Luke Bertelsten; USAC National Chief Routesetter, General Manager/Co-owner at Rocks and Ropes

  37. Katey Blumenthal; Sports and Orthopedic Certified Specialist with Pediatric and Women’s Pelvic Health Specialties, Founder of the University of Utah Climber’s Clinic, Physical Therapist working with USAC medical support

  38. Jessi Haynes; USAC Coach, Head Coach Circle City Climbing, USAC Coaching Committee Member

  39. Mario Stanley; Head Coach/Team Manager Movement Gym Plano, Sends and Suffers Podcast Host, Participant on HBO’s The Climb

  40. Carly Snidow; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Nationals Festival Coach

  41. Emmett Cookson; USA Paraclimbing Team Head Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Athlete

  42. Jess Malloy; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Youth Nationals Festival Coach

  43. Augy Cohn; USAC Level 4 Nationals Routesetter

  44. Malcom Mel Godowski;  USAC Level 2 Coach, Routesetter, Former USAC DEI Committee Chair

  45. Chris Mosier; Trans Athlete, Hall of fame Triathlete, All-American Duathlete, National Champion Race Walker

  46. Jaelen Holt; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach Boston Bouldering Project, USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  47. Evan Marlatt; USAC Level 4 Routesetter

  48. Moé Corbett; USAC Level 4 Routesetter

  49. Kathy Karlo; For the Love of Climbing Podcast; No Man's Land Film Festival Executive Director

  50. Shara Zaia; President (Cruxing in Color), Manager (AAC), Athlete (SCARPA, Wild Country, Arc’teryx)

  51. Chad Walker; USAC Level 3 Routesetter

  52. Andrea Charest; Gym Owner, Mammut Athlete, AMGA Ice Instructor, Assistant Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide

  53. Jasper Jarecki; Head Coach Metrorock VT, Metrorock VT Competition Team

  54. Amin Abbasi; USAC Level 4 Routesetter, Mesa Rim Austin Head Setter

  55. Brad Burns; La Sportiva Athlete, PCGI SPI Climbing Guide, Participant on HBO's The Climb

  56. Cate Beebe; Climbing Director at Bend Endurance Academy, USAC Level 2 routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach

  57. Nathan Sato; USAC Athlete, USAC Youth Finalist, USAC Coach

  58. Jordan Romig; Owner of Asylum Bouldering Gym

  59. Jenna Tseng; La Sportiva and Arc'teryx Athlete, USAC Level 2 Coach

  60. Jenny Fryer; Head Coach, USAC Level 2 coach and USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  61. Christine Deyo; USAC Level 3 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach

  62. Dylan Garey; USAC Level 3 Routesetter

  63. Paul Jung; Director of Routesetting, The Cliffs Climbing + Fitness

  64. Amanda Foote; USAC Level 2 Coach, National Festival Coach, Level 1 Routesetter

  65. Hilary Silberman; USAC Level 2 Coach, Parent of USAC Athlete

  66. Matthew Birch; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, Head Routesetter

  67. David Sumada; USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  68. Rajan Patel; USAC Collegiate Athlete

  69. Genevive Walker; Evolv, DMM, Mountain Hardware, Sterling Rope Athlete, AMGA Rock Guide

  70. Mia DePaolis; USAC Level 3 Routesetter

  71. Ryan Smith; USAC Level 3 Routesetter

  72. Xander Henriod; USAC Athlete

  73. Taylor Fragomeni; Former Head Coach Bozeman Climbing Team, Former USAC Routesetter; Owner/Founder of Tangent Climbing

  74. Alex Olander; Trans Athlete, USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  75. Blake Green; USAC Coach, Routesetter, Committee Member

  76. Kristen Fiore; USAC Level 2 Coach, CRAG-VT President

  77. Aidan Halloran; USAC Level 2 Coach

  78. Ezra Park; USAC Level 2 Coach

  79. Erin Rast; USAC Level 2 Coach, Athlete

  80. Jordan Revis; Cypher Climbing Athlete, Arc’Teryx Boston Community Ambassador, Aniiu Gloves Athlete, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor

  81. Ethan Paris; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach

  82. Andrew Dederer; USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  83. Min Chi; Coach, Parent, Gym Owner

  84. Philip Bonyhadi; USAC Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  85. Briana Chui; USAC Level 1 Routesetter and Level 2 Coach, Elevation Climbing Team Head Coach

  86. Sarah Bucknam; USAC Coach, Routesetter, Athlete

  87. Maiza Lima; Athlete, Participant on HBO’s The Climb

  88. Andre Braga; Athlete, Participant on HBO’s The Climb

  89. Kelsey Rex; La Sportiva and Blue Ice Athlete, AMGA Rock Guide

  90. Kevin Kubik; USAC Level 2 Paraclimbing Coach

  91. Ahmed Toure; USAC Coach

  92. Chelsea Sommer; USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  93. Ada Jones; USAC Level 2 Coach

  94. Robyn Ragins; USAC Level 2 Coach, Finalist on HBO’s The Climb

  95. Naomi Skeer; USAC Level 2 Coach

  96. Trevor Gallo; USAC Level 2 Coach

  97. Rya Sipe; Youth Programs Director at Out in the Wild, USAC level 2 coach, AMGA Apprentice Rock Guide

  98. Bri Givens; USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  99. Claire Kawainui Miller; USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  100. Brittany Leavitt; Athlete, Instructor, Brown Girls Climb CEO

  101. Mariana Mendoza; Athlete, Former Mexico’s National Climbing Team, Former Coach, Featured in Patagonia’s film What the Hands Do, Social Justice Advocate

  102. Stefanie Myr; USAC Coach / Level 1 Routesetter

  103. Gene O. Desideraggiop; USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  104. Raymond Hansen; USAC Athlete, USAC level 1 Routesetter

  105. Brittany Booth Wenzelman; USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  106. Evan Keyes; USAC Coach, Routesetter

  107. Alexa Zielinkski; USAC Coach

  108. Brett Wingerter; USAC Youth Head Coach, Movement LIC

  109. Jaegar Doty; Routesetter & Coach

  110. Ethan Rao-Cramer; USAC Level 2 Coach

  111. Amira Anis; Routesetter & Instructor

  112. Doc Surrell; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Head Routesetter Climb Nulu

  113. Brandon Conaway; USAC Level 4 Routesetter

  114. Becca Saag; USAC Level 2 Coach, USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  115. Flannery Shay-Nemirow; USAC L4 routesetter, IFSC Diversity Intern, USAC Routesetting Committee Member

  116. Jessa Mayhew; Parent of USAC Athlete

  117. Andy Raether; Parent of USAC Athlete, Former Pro Climber, Former Youth Competitor

  118. Mélise Edwards; Athlete, PhD Candidate

  119. Theo Seah; Former USAC Collegiate Athlete, Youth Team Coach

  120. Rebecca Anderson; Parent of USAC Athlete

  121. Kimbrough Moore; Guidebook Author

  122. Torsten Johnson; USAC Coach

  123. Elle McDonald; USAC Athlete, Collegiate Rocky Mountain Student Representative

  124. Hann Smiley; USAC Coach, AMGA Singe-Pitch Instructor

  125. Rebecca Anderson; Parent of USAC Athletes

  126. Jennifer Walters; Climbing Photographer

  127. Mariah Rooney; Trauma-Informed Sport Consultant, WPATH Affirming Psychotherapist, Professor

  128. Winter Russell; USAC Collegiate Athlete

  129. Hayden Simmons; USAC Collegiate Athlete

  130. Aryana Bhattacharyya; USAC Athlete, USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  131. Nico Salinas; USAC Level 1 Coach

  132. Marisa Romero; USAC Level 2 Coach

  133. Sean Youn; USAC Collegiate Athlete

  134. Jessica Cysner; PA-C, Former Athlete and Coach

  135. Deidre Beck; Parent of USAC Athlete

  136. Chris Truono; USAC Level 2 Routesetter, USAC Level 1 Coach

  137. Mikey Reyenga; USAC Level 2 Routesetter

  138. Zoe Brodsky; USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  139. Brian Hennebry; USAC Level 2 Coach, Routesetter

  140. Drew Gatlin; USAC Level 1 Routesetter

  141. Chris Lopez; Routesetter

  142. Todd Stebbing; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, Head Routesetter

  143. River Tulloss; USAC Level 1 Routesetter, USAC Level 2 Coach

  144. Emily Varisco; USAC Level 2 Coach, co-Founder of Kinship Climbing Collective (KCC), Head Coach of Lunate Climbing Team and the University of Oregon Climbing Team, Former 2-time USAC Youth Climbing Team member

  145. Jordan Revis; Athlete, AMGA Single Pitch Instructor

  146. Emily Alcaraz; Coach

  147. Pat Guillen; USAC Coach, USAC Judge, USAC Belayer

  148. Ben Stanton; Sportrock Youth Head Coach, Competitor

  149. Richard Banh; USAC Collegiate Athlete

  150. Kaci Collins Jordan; Trans Athlete, Climbing Instructor

  151. Steph Chaddock; USAC Level 2 Coach, Head Coach MetroRock Littleton

  152. Hunter Wade; Industry Employee

Last Updated 12/27/2023 4:41pm EST